Can people visit the Esphigmenou Monastery? Or would I have to bust out my Zodiac and my marine corps ninja stealth to visit?
lol - that depends on what mood Bartholomew is in.
You can visit any time, but you cannot tell the Athos "Authority" that you are planning to visit Esphigmenou. It is helpful if you have a Greek last name on your passport and/or a university ID.
There is a very good instruction on visiting Mt. Athos at this link...
http://www.monachos.net/monasticism/ath ... thos.shtml
I've read through it and the only thing it left out, at least I didn't see it, is that you really only need to let them know no less than a week before you go, more is better of course. It would also be helpful if the article had some instruction on how to travel from Athens to Thessoloniki, and then to Ouranoupoli, as this is a significant (and in some ways the worst) part of the journey.
It would also be very very helpful to know how to and what to pack.