Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

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Maria
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

Post by Maria »

Barbara wrote:

Yes, those must be the same as the Siberian Elms ! They are SUCH a PEST, aren't they ? Same problem here, both front and back yards. Then, they shoot up all sorts of attempts at growing a new pest. It's a lot of work to keep after them, even once cut down. They get SO tall, but are so WEAK that they are a threat and should be cut down.
But if you have close quarters, it's difficult for an arborist to get in close enough to work safely. I had so many problems trying to persuade tree services to even cut highly dangerous branches because they would say that the area was too congested and they refused to be responsible for damage. Only many, many years later did I learn the reason : that company is uninsured [ ! ]. I finally found a professional arborist to cut down the front one. He wasn't too keen on the idea, but I kept insisting. Sure enough, when the tree was felled, they saw that the stump was completely moldy and rotten. Worse, there were 2 stumps together but with a big gap so that the bottom of the tree was highly unstable. Thank goodness I didn't listen to anyone else's advice but did what I suspected was needed !

So I hope you are able to get yours eradicated, Maria. They are just terrible. They get the most horrible looking things in them. Then those in turn get ALL over the place. There is no way to get rid of them except supposedly spraying soap on them, I found out on the internet. But who is going to stand there and spray tons of these ugly monsters with a little spray bottle ?

I really am glad the big Elms are gone - BUT then the roots start growing again. Before you know it, they have emerged as NEW Siberian Elms ! Then you have to get those out. What I have done is dig trenches and 'chase roots'. That means follow the path of the root as it winds different directions and cut that all out with a handsaw. The whole experience is arduous.

We have a similar problem with a tree known as Laurel Sumac, which is a relative of the Poison Oak, Poison Ivy, and Poison Sumac. If a person is allergic to Poison Ivy, then they can react to the very aromatic odor released whenever one of these trees is cut down.

Whereas Elms are a hardwood, Laurel Sumac is more of a soft wood. When it is cut, it sprays an aromatic compound that if it gets on your skin, it can cause a horrible rash. During high wind storms, the laurel sumac can break and the broken branch if not taken away can reroot. Otherwise, the shrub propagates by seeds and by lateral roots, which are shallow. With one laurel sumac tree, a dense forest of these shrubs can be generated in one to two years through its extensive underground network of roots. It is highly flammable and is part of the chaparral range or Mediterranean climate.

Incidentally, the Poison Ivy family includes the macadamia nuts, the juicy mango fruit, and the pistachio nut. People with allergies to macadamia nuts can become allergic to the pistachio too. In Southern California the macadamia nut is cultivated.

Lord Jesus Christ, have mercy on me a sinner.

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Barbara
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

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What did you mean here, Maria ?

part of the chaparral range or Mediterranean climate


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Maria
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

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When I studied botany and ecology, we went on field trips to see the different types of subclimates found in the Mediterranean climate.

The Mediterranean climate is found in the land surrounding the Mediterranean Sea and in climate zones such as found in Southern California. You would be surprised at the different subclimate zones found within a few miles. Climes are different depending on whether the property is located on a northern slope, western slope, southern slope, eastern slope, or in the flat lands known as valleys that are surrounded by hills. Climates are also modified by a body of water, whether it is an ocean, bay, lake, or river system. Those climates near oceans are more uniform, whereas inland climates can be chilled by the lake effect.

For example, our property is located on a southern slope that is occasionally bathed by marine air, so during the winter, the freezing mountain air from the north drains down into the valley during the night causing freeze and frost alerts where the temperature drops below 32 degrees F. However, even though we are in the foothills, that freeze/frost alert does not affect us at all because the cold mass of air drops down below us and blankets the valley. Thus, we are in a subtropical banana belt where we can grow citrus and avocados, but the valleys cannot grow such fruits and tropical plants.

Whereas we cannot grow apricots and apples, which need a certain number of cold freezing nights, the valleys have abundant peach, apricot, nectarine and some apple trees. We have a lot of chaparral in our zone. These bushes require more sunshine and warmer nights than does the valley climate. The valleys that are closer to the coast do not experience these extremes as do the more inland valleys. Thus the coastal valleys are in another climate zone than the inland valleys which could be only a few miles apart.

Lord Jesus Christ, have mercy on me a sinner.

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Maria
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

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Barbara wrote:



What did you mean here, Maria ?

part of the chaparral range or Mediterranean climate


Dear Barbara,

Please forgive me. I thought that I was editing my post, so some of what you wrote is now lost in cyberspace. If you can remember what you posted, then please feel free to repost. I think you wrote about mortgages and charging credit cards to help repay the parish debt in Oregon. However, your question about different climate zones gave me a great opportunity to split this thread. Thus, I have finally split this thread at a good breaking point.

Now, we can discuss our love of trees.

In Christ,
Maria

Lord Jesus Christ, have mercy on me a sinner.

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Maria
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

Post by Maria »

Montana also has distinctive climes.

South of Missoula, Montana, there is an area called the "Banana Belt." Although one cannot grow bananas there, it is warmer than the other areas because of the protected valley in which it lies.

Does Idaho also have warmer areas that are more pleasant due to the lack of extreme weather?

Lord Jesus Christ, have mercy on me a sinner.

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Orthodox in Michigan
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

Post by Orthodox in Michigan »

Maria wrote:
Barbara wrote:

Yes, those must be the same as the Siberian Elms ! They are SUCH a PEST, aren't they ? Same problem here, both front and back yards. Then, they shoot up all sorts of attempts at growing a new pest. It's a lot of work to keep after them, even once cut down. They get SO tall, but are so WEAK that they are a threat and should be cut down.
But if you have close quarters, it's difficult for an arborist to get in close enough to work safely. I had so many problems trying to persuade tree services to even cut highly dangerous branches because they would say that the area was too congested and they refused to be responsible for damage. Only many, many years later did I learn the reason : that company is uninsured [ ! ]. I finally found a professional arborist to cut down the front one. He wasn't too keen on the idea, but I kept insisting. Sure enough, when the tree was felled, they saw that the stump was completely moldy and rotten. Worse, there were 2 stumps together but with a big gap so that the bottom of the tree was highly unstable. Thank goodness I didn't listen to anyone else's advice but did what I suspected was needed !

So I hope you are able to get yours eradicated, Maria. They are just terrible. They get the most horrible looking things in them. Then those in turn get ALL over the place. There is no way to get rid of them except supposedly spraying soap on them, I found out on the internet. But who is going to stand there and spray tons of these ugly monsters with a little spray bottle ?

I really am glad the big Elms are gone - BUT then the roots start growing again. Before you know it, they have emerged as NEW Siberian Elms ! Then you have to get those out. What I have done is dig trenches and 'chase roots'. That means follow the path of the root as it winds different directions and cut that all out with a handsaw. The whole experience is arduous.

We have a similar problem with a tree known as Laurel Sumac, which is a relative of the Poison Oak, Poison Ivy, and Poison Sumac. If a person is allergic to Poison Ivy, then they can react to the very aromatic odor released whenever one of these trees is cut down.

Whereas Elms are a hardwood, Laurel Sumac is more of a soft wood. When it is cut, it sprays an aromatic compound that if it gets on your skin, it can cause a horrible rash. During high wind storms, the laurel sumac can break and the broken branch if not taken away can reroot. Otherwise, the shrub propagates by seeds and by lateral roots, which are shallow. With one laurel sumac tree, a dense forest of these shrubs can be generated in one to two years through its extensive underground network of roots. It is highly flammable and is part of the chaparral range or Mediterranean climate.

Incidentally, the Poison Ivy family includes the macadamia nuts, the juicy mango fruit, and the pistachio nut. People with allergies to macadamia nuts can become allergic to the pistachio too. In Southern California the macadamia nut is cultivated.

I was noticing your knowledge of trees is really good , i work as a tree trimmer , for a county we plant in the fall but do a lot of removals , the Chinese elm or Siberian elm is a soft wood the American elm is hard wood , Siberian elms are very brittle especially when ice builds up on the limbs , just like the soft wood maple silver maple their not very good trees to have around residentially

The hard maple and sugar maple are good trees .

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Maria
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Re: Growing Trees and Shrubs in your climate zone

Post by Maria »

Orthodox in michigan wrote:
Maria wrote:
Barbara wrote:

Yes, those must be the same as the Siberian Elms ! They are SUCH a PEST, aren't they ? Same problem here, both front and back yards. Then, they shoot up all sorts of attempts at growing a new pest. It's a lot of work to keep after them, even once cut down. They get SO tall, but are so WEAK that they are a threat and should be cut down.
But if you have close quarters, it's difficult for an arborist to get in close enough to work safely. I had so many problems trying to persuade tree services to even cut highly dangerous branches because they would say that the area was too congested and they refused to be responsible for damage. Only many, many years later did I learn the reason : that company is uninsured [ ! ]. I finally found a professional arborist to cut down the front one. He wasn't too keen on the idea, but I kept insisting. Sure enough, when the tree was felled, they saw that the stump was completely moldy and rotten. Worse, there were 2 stumps together but with a big gap so that the bottom of the tree was highly unstable. Thank goodness I didn't listen to anyone else's advice but did what I suspected was needed !

So I hope you are able to get yours eradicated, Maria. They are just terrible. They get the most horrible looking things in them. Then those in turn get ALL over the place. There is no way to get rid of them except supposedly spraying soap on them, I found out on the internet. But who is going to stand there and spray tons of these ugly monsters with a little spray bottle ?

I really am glad the big Elms are gone - BUT then the roots start growing again. Before you know it, they have emerged as NEW Siberian Elms ! Then you have to get those out. What I have done is dig trenches and 'chase roots'. That means follow the path of the root as it winds different directions and cut that all out with a handsaw. The whole experience is arduous.

We have a similar problem with a tree known as Laurel Sumac, which is a relative of the Poison Oak, Poison Ivy, and Poison Sumac. If a person is allergic to Poison Ivy, then they can react to the very aromatic odor released whenever one of these trees is cut down.

Whereas Elms are a hardwood, Laurel Sumac is more of a soft wood. When it is cut, it sprays an aromatic compound that if it gets on your skin, it can cause a horrible rash. During high wind storms, the laurel sumac can break and the broken branch if not taken away can reroot. Otherwise, the shrub propagates by seeds and by lateral roots, which are shallow. With one laurel sumac tree, a dense forest of these shrubs can be generated in one to two years through its extensive underground network of roots. It is highly flammable and is part of the chaparral range or Mediterranean climate.

Incidentally, the Poison Ivy family includes the macadamia nuts, the juicy mango fruit, and the pistachio nut. People with allergies to macadamia nuts can become allergic to the pistachio too. In Southern California the macadamia nut is cultivated.

I was noticing your knowledge of trees is really good , i work as a tree trimmer , for a county we plant in the fall but do a lot of removals , the Chinese elm or Siberian elm is a soft wood the American elm is hard wood , Siberian elms are very brittle especially when ice builds up on the limbs , just like the soft wood maple silver maple their not very good trees to have around residentially

The hard maple and sugar maple are good trees .

Thanks for your contributions. I studied botany and other courses while in college majoring in biology. We went on extensive field trips, but my learning continued after I graduated especially after buying a home and being overwhelmed by the weed trees known as the Chinese elm and Laurel sumac.

Lord Jesus Christ, have mercy on me a sinner.

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